Handsome Shokudo

Rich, charcoal-crisped meats layered with the fresh aromatics of mint and lime define the cooking of northeastern Thailand and Laos, offering small plates tailored for relaxed drinking. Tucked into an alleyway in Nishi-Ogi Minami, Handsome Shokudo (ハンサム食堂) reaches past familiar curries and tom yum goong to highlight charcoal grills and bold salads in an unpretentious setting.

Anchor pieces on the grill include moo yang, featuring thick cuts of pork shoulder slowly roasted over coals, and gai yang with its crisp-rendered chicken skin. Smoky char also underpins salads that cut through the richness with acidity and chili, such as yam moo yang made with warm sliced pork and aromatic greens, or yam nua pairing beef skirt steak with fragrant lemongrass. Because the menu provides half-portions, smaller grill sizes, and a broad range of appetizer plates, solo visitors can comfortably line up several distinct dishes across the table.

Popular bar snacks include naem, a raw fermented pork sausage with an addictive sour note, and Thai suki tofu dressed with cucumber in a sweet and spicy sauce. Drinks include regional labels such as Singha, Chang, and Beerlao, alongside the signature Thai Sour, mixed with six herbs including coriander and kaffir lime leaves. Taking Mongshum, a Thai spirit made from fragrant jasmine rice, lengthened with soda water offers another clear echo of Southeast Asian street stalls.

For a fuller meal, iron-griddled pad Thai carrying the savory depth of dried shrimp and a green curry that balances creamy coconut milk against sharp spice are dependable orders. At midday, a rice-plate format allowing diners to choose their side dishes captures the feel of an everyday Thai food counter, whether stopping in for lunch or lingering well into the night.